Performance Testing & Strength Profiling
Objective data. Smarter training.
Performance Testing at Quay Kinetics Physio gives climbers and athletes clear, objective data on strength, asymmetry and climbing-specific performance. Using validated tools including the Tindeq Progressor, grip dynamometry and evidence-based movement tests, we help you understand where your body is strong, where it’s compensating, and what you need to train next.
Led by Performance Testing Specialist Will Ashby (MSc), sessions combine sports science, climbing research and practical coaching. You'll leave with meaningful insights — not generic advice — and a tailored plan to improve with confidence.
Why performance testing matters.
Most climbers and athletes train by feel — but the strongest performers also train with data.
Objective testing helps you:
Identify weak links before they become injuries
Understand the true capacity of your fingers, shoulders and lower limbs
Train the qualities that matter (Peak Force, RFD, endurance)
Compare left vs right strength to uncover hidden asymmetries
Track progress with repeat testing
Make smarter training decisions
We test the same metrics used in climbing research and elite performance environments:
Peak Force, Rate of Force Development (RFD), Critical Force (CF), ASH, and validated movement profiles.
Who is this service for?
Anyone Who Likes Data
If you want to understand your body or have ever wondered “what should I actually train?” - this service is ideal for you.
Active Individuals & Athletes
Strength profiling
Asymmetry identification
Return-to-sport baselines
Targeted training recommendations
Runners, gym-goers, recreational athletes
Climbers
Improve finger strength & power
Identify limiting factors
Learn what to train next
Support return from injury
Reduce finger, elbow & shoulder risk
Suitable for all levels — V0 to elite
Performance Testing can enhance your enjoyment of your sport and reduce your pain & injury risk.
What we test
Climbing-Specific Finger Strength (Tindeq Progressor)
Peak Force: Maximum finger strength
RFD: How quickly you can generate force — crucial for sticking dynamic moves
Critical Force: Your sustainable strength/endurance (W’)
These metrics correlate strongly with climbing performance in research.
Grip strength.
Pull up strength (optional).
Shoulder Strength & Control
ASH test: Climbing-specific horizontal shoulder strength
Shoulder internal/external rotation range
Identifies over-reliance on finger strength due to poor shoulder capacity
Lower Limb & Movement
Climbing performance relies on far more than fingers:
Y-Balance
Knee-to-wall
Single-leg hop
Countermovement jump
Calf endurance
These reveal imbalances affecting high steps, dynamic movement, stability and landing control.
Which package should I choose?
Choose the Initial Strength & Asymmetry Profile if…
You want a general performance baseline, are returning from injury, or want a whole-body MOT.
Choose the Climbing Performance Profile if…
You want finger strength numbers, climbing-specific data (Peak Force, RFD, Critical Force), and a plan to climb harder.
Choose the Comprehensive Profile if…
You want everything: your sport specific metrics + full-body asymmetry, mobility and power testing.
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A whole-body assessment ideal for climbers, runners, gym-goers, or anyone wanting a baseline measure of strength, control, and movement quality.
Includes:
Grip strength
Shoulder range of motion tests
Lower limb asymmetry tests
Y-Balance
Hop testing
CMJ
Summary report
Optional Physitrack plan
What you’ll learn:
Your key strength asymmetries, movement limitations, and the top 2–3 priorities to improve performance or reduce injury risk. -
A climbing-specific assessment focusing on finger force, rate of force development, shoulder strength, and grip metrics.
Includes:
Grip Strength
Tindeq Peak Force
Rate of Force Development (RFD)
Critical Force (climbing endurance)
ASH test for shoulder strength
Optional lower limb tests
Climbing-specific report
Optional fingerboard Physitrack plan
What you’ll learn:
How your finger strength compares to climbing benchmarks, where your climbing-specific weaknesses lie, and exactly what to train next. -
The most complete profiling option, combining both general and climbing-specific testing.
Includes everything in the first two packages, plus:
Additional ROM & strength testing
Full asymmetry breakdown
4–6 week training strategy
Full Physitrack programme
Complete PDF report
What you’ll learn:
A complete picture of your body’s strengths, weaknesses, asymmetries, and performance capacity — plus a full plan to improve them. -
Track progress. Stay accountable. Train smarter.
A 45-minute retest session repeating your key measures from your initial assessment. Essential for tracking improvement, refining your training strategy, and checking your progress.
Recommended every 8–12 weeks.
Includes a short written comparison summary.
What you receive
You’ll receive:
✔ Clear, easy-to-understand explanation of your results
✔ Comparison to climbing or athletic benchmarks
✔ Identification of your biggest performance opportunities
✔ Prioritised training recommendations
✔ Optional personalised Physitrack Exercise training plan
✔ Report within 24 hours
Location
All performance testing takes place at:
Boulder Exe – Quay Kinetics Physio Treatment Room
Paid parking on site. Full access to gym, fingerboards, and testing equipment.
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We recommend warming up beforehand to maximise the time available for testing but a structured warm-up is included at the start of your session.
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Yes, though if your injury requires diagnosis or clinical assessment, we may recommend physiotherapy first.
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Gym or climbing clothing you can move in comfortably.
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No. Testing is fully adaptable.
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Within 24 hours, delivered via email.
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Only if you’re choosing the climbing-specific package. The Initial and Comprehensive Profiles are suitable for all active individuals.
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Yes — many people retest every 8–12 weeks for accountability and measurable improvement.
